Urban Adventures: 1000 year old fig tree -Wonderboom Nature Reserve Pretoria- preserving our heritage

Urban Adventure Series: Wonderboom Nature Reserve Pretoria - 1000 year old fig tree.

On Sunday morning, with threatening storm clouds brewing ahead we set off in search of one of the worlds oldest trees, the wild fig called the Wonderboom, which spans some 50m. This little urban adventure was on my bucket list for some time now after I came across Wonderboom and its fort during some research for another blog.

We live in a really wonderful city, full of beauty and heritage, heritage for all to enjoy and learn from. History is what shapes us. Both Johannesburg and Pretoria and its surrounds is steeped in tradition and woven cultures and its a privilege to be able to see them and write about them. This will be a series of Urban Adventure blogs I will bring to you and I hope it will encourage you to leave your armchairs to explore your neighbourhood.

Photo Credit Kim Williams Samsung Wonderboom Nature Reserve Pretoria #nikon #adventurekimcom #urbanadventures #heritiage #figtree #AngloBoerFort #JacarandaCity #ancienttrees #Ndebele #voortrekkers #hikingtails #Joziwalks #cityofTshwane #NationalMonument

My sister and I finally arrived at the main gate of the reserve after my GPS took us to the opposite side of the reserve where there are no entry points. However it was really great to see all the old Pretoria homes with their tin roofs and old architecture, a reminder of years gone by.

You will get a black and white photo copy of this map at the gate. Photo Credit City of Twane website Wonderboom Nature Reserve Pretoria #nikon #adventurekimcom #urbanadventures #heritiage #figtree #AngloBoerFort #JacarandaCity #ancienttrees #Ndebele #voortrekkers #hikingtails #Joziwalks #cityofTshwane #NationalMonument

So where is Wonderboom Nature Reserve? We found it in the northern part of the city and straddles the ancient Magaliesberg Mountains. When you drive towards the reserve, you cannot miss the unmistakable Magaliesberg mountain topography. The reserve is actually rather big considering its found in the city outskirts and its all of 200 ha.

All along the park below are rather informative sign boards that are divided up into Flora and Fauna, Geological and Cultural information. So look out for them. This is the Sickle Bush and below is a picutre of the board for you to take a look at. Photo Credit Kim Williams Nikon Wonderboom Nature Reserve Pretoria #nikon #adventurekimcom #urbanadventures #heritiage #figtree #AngloBoerFort #JacarandaCity #ancienttrees #Ndebele #voortrekkers #hikingtails #Joziwalks #cityofTshwane #NationalMonument

The Wonderboom Nature Reserve is situated within the Gold Reef Mountain Bushveld, comprising of gorgeous rocky hills and ridges - paradise for our dassies, with its denser woody vegetation found more on its south-facing slopes giving rise to some distinct flora differences.

One of the many informative sign boards.Photo Credit Kim Williams Nikon Wonderboom Nature Reserve Pretoria #nikon #adventurekimcom #urbanadventures #heritiage #figtree #AngloBoerFort #JacarandaCity #ancienttrees #Ndebele #voortrekkers #hikingtails #Joziwalks #cityofTshwane #NationalMonument

There is a fair amount of shaded parking. We paid R35 each at the gate. The staff are very friendly and professional. Photo Credit Kim Williams Nikon Wonderboom Nature Reserve Pretoria #nikon #adventurekimcom #urbanadventures #heritiage #figtree #AngloBoerFort #JacarandaCity #ancienttrees #Ndebele #voortrekkers #hikingtails #Joziwalks #cityofTshwane #NationalMonument

Tracey spotting the Wild fig tree complex!! Photo Credit Kim Williams Nikon. Wonderboom Nature Reserve Pretoria #nikon #adventurekimcom #urbanadventures #heritiage #figtree #AngloBoerFort #JacarandaCity #ancienttrees #Ndebele #voortrekkers #hikingtails #Joziwalks #cityofTshwane #NationalMonument

It is famous for another bucket list moment for me, its magnificent specimen of Ficus salicifolia, a 1000 year old wild fig called the "Wonderboom" and rightly so, this is indeed a wonder to behold!! The fig tree received its rather apt name by the Voortrekkers back in 1836, who at the time were under the leadership of Hendrik Potgieter. In Afrikaans is means "Wonder Tree" or "Miracle Tree".

The Ancient 1000 year old wild fig tree. Photo Credit Kim Williams Nikon Wonderboom Nature Reserve Pretoria #nikon #adventurekimcom #urbanadventures #heritiage #figtree #AngloBoerFort #JacarandaCity #ancienttrees #Ndebele #voortrekkers #hikingtails #Joziwalks #cityofTshwane #NationalMonument

The Wonderboom tree's branches reach over 50 meters in diameter, and the highest branches reach up to 23 meters height. Standing and seeing it from a distance you get a good idea as to how big and what an exceptional size this is for a wild fig tree. This dense grove of a parent and several daughter trees is simply huge. The spectacular Wonderboom complex comprises of the parent and daughter trees and as it grew, the outlying branches rooted themselves around the parent tree. This process has repeated itself producing another three layers of daughter trees, which now encircle the mother tree, with their 13 distinct trunks. The original tree stump was dated by using radiocarbon-dating and it is estimated that the tree dates back 1000 years.

At the foot of the hill near the Wonderboom is home to archaeological excavation sites dated from the Iron and Stone Ages. The Stone Age excavation is the largest single discovery of stone artifacts in Africa. We did not get to see this site today so will need to come back and concentrate just on the site itself.

This reserve was declared a National Monument under old NMC legislation on 23 September 1988.Photo Credit Kim Williams Nikon Wonderboom Nature Reserve Pretoria #nikon #adventurekimcom #urbanadventures #heritiage #figtree #AngloBoerFort #JacarandaCity #ancienttrees #Ndebele #voortrekkers #hikingtails #Joziwalks #cityofTshwane #NationalMonument

At the top of Wonderboom Hill (a rather steep rock stairway to the top I might add!) are the ruins of the Wonderboom Fort. This is one of four famous forts built by the former Zuid-Afrikaansche Republiek at the end of the 19th century to defend Pretoria against the British forces. Reportedly is was never actually used, however it was blown up, more than likely under the instruction of Prime Minister Jan Smuts, in the early days of the Second World War. It was feared it may be used by anti-government dissidents as a springboard for an attack on the state. My blog on this fort will follow.

Photo Credit Kim Williams Nikon Wonderboom Nature Reserve Pretoria #nikon #adventurekimcom #urbanadventures #heritiage #figtree #AngloBoerFort #JacarandaCity #ancienttrees #Ndebele #voortrekkers #hikingtails #Joziwalks #cityofTshwane #NationalMonument

Legend has it that the fig tree grew this big because one of the famous Chiefs of an indigenous tribe, lies buried beneath its roots. When I was doing a little research, I found out that there had been attempts to locate his grave beneath the roots, but to no avail. According to the legend Nyabela Mahlangu, the Ingwenyama of the Ndzunza Ndebele of South Africa is buried here. The Ndebele people regarded the Wonderboom as an important burial ground.

We did not see any monkeys today but a lot of birds. Photo Credit Kim Williams Nikon Wonderboom Nature Reserve Pretoria #nikon #adventurekimcom #urbanadventures #heritiage #figtree #AngloBoerFort #JacarandaCity #ancienttrees #Ndebele #voortrekkers #hikingtails #Joziwalks #cityofTshwane #NationalMonument

Wonderboom tree interpretive trail 0,5 km - Fort hiking trail 2 km - Waterfall hiking trail 1 km - Joos Becker Guided trail 2,6 km - Bird watching - Picnic area - Abseiling (bookings only)

The entrance to the Photo Credit Kim Williams Nikon Wonderboom Nature Reserve Pretoria #nikon #adventurekimcom #urbanadventures #heritiage #figtree #AngloBoerFort #JacarandaCity #ancienttrees #Ndebele #voortrekkers #hikingtails #Joziwalks #cityofTshwane #NationalMonument

The wild fig tree is considered a holy tree by many of the indigenous tribes that lived within the Magaliesberg area. Holy trees like this form a very important part in culture and beliefs, some of which believe that their ancestors lived in them and therefore the tree cannot be disturbed.

The row of Braille information boards at the entrance to the walkway.Photo Credit Kim Williams Nikon Wonderboom Nature Reserve Pretoria #nikon #adventurekimcom #urbanadventures #heritiage #figtree #AngloBoerFort #JacarandaCity #ancienttrees #Ndebele #voortrekkers #hikingtails #Joziwalks #cityofTshwane #NationalMonument

A great information board describing the layout of the Wonderboom complex. Photo Credit Kim Williams Nikon Wonderboom Nature Reserve Pretoria #nikon #adventurekimcom #urbanadventures #heritiage #figtree #AngloBoerFort #JacarandaCity #ancienttrees #Ndebele #voortrekkers #hikingtails #Joziwalks #cityofTshwane #NationalMonument

So who was this chief? Chief Nyabela occupied the throne somewhere between 1879 and 1883 at a stronghold called kaNomtjharhelo in Mpumalanga not far from Roossenekal. His tribe took part in the Mapoch ('Mabhoko') war of 1882/3 against the ZAR forces. When the Ndzundza were defeated apparently by hunger, Chief Nyabela and Mampuru of the Pedi, whom he gave refuge were tried for treason in Pretoria. This resulted in Mampuru being hanged and Nyabela imprisoned. Chief Nyabela was then released in 1899 and settled with a number of his followers in the villages on the northern slopes of the Magaliesberg, on the farm Derdepoort (KwaMkhina of Emlalaganye)at the present day Sinoville.

It is recorded that Chief Nyabela died in 1902, some texts say 1903, however he was buried at the site of the royal village. The last of the Ndebele left this site around 1952/3 and settled near Klipgat, now known as the KwaMsiza village. This site has attracted many tourists over the years and in December 1970 the Nazundza unveiled a monument and statue of Nyabela at KoNomtjharhelo to honour him. However it is said that he was not really culturally re-buried, in the true sense of the word simply as custom dictates you should take a handful of grave soil to symbolically be transferred to the site of the monument.

During the existence of the former Kwa Ndebele Monuments Council in the 1980's an effort was made to locate to exact position of Nybalela's grave at Sinoville . Sadly this exercise proved to be a bit fruitless, although some graves were indeed located and its believed that at least one among them was more than likely that of Nyabela. The major hurdle was that the immediate area around and at the sites of the graves had already been extensively built up and disturbed by urban development. This would make it almost impossible to find the site at present. The Ndebele graves at the Wonderboom are therefor believed to be those of regional headmen - amakosana or unduna and definitely not that of the royal leader. I kind of like the legend version of his burial though! Lets hope some more excavation will be done at both sites and it will reveal who is actually buried where.

As already mentioned this mega fig tree is older than 1 000 years. The huge Wonderboom tree complex that stands before you, originated from just a single tree and only part of the original tree remain. To many this remarkable tree is considered magical because over many years the huge branches started to drop and eventually touched the ground. These drooping branches then rooted and new trees grew up. The trees are sometimes referred to as a family-tree consisting of a mother with seven daughter/second generation trees. Three of the daughter trees have also rooted and established their own three daughter/3rd generation trees themselves. This vegetation reproduction of the Wonderboom specimen is not typical of this species, so this is indeed a very unique and extraordinary tree and what a fantastic privilege it was to stand within its presence!!

It is recorded that the tree was once big enough to shade 1 000 people at a time, or 22 ox wagons with 20 oxen in front of each! Photo Credit Kim Williams Nikon Wonderboom Nature Reserve Pretoria #nikon #adventurekimcom #urbanadventures #heritiage #figtree #AngloBoerFort #JacarandaCity #ancienttrees #Ndebele #voortrekkers #hikingtails #Joziwalks #cityofTshwane #NationalMonument

Today the original mother tree it is much smaller. It got damaged during a devastating fire in 1870 reportedly started by a hunting party later it was affected by parasitic infestation, which put it in quarantine for 20 years.Photo Credit Kim Williams Nikon Wonderboom Nature Reserve Pretoria #nikon #adventurekimcom #urbanadventures #heritiage #figtree #AngloBoerFort #JacarandaCity #ancienttrees #Ndebele #voortrekkers #hikingtails #Joziwalks #cityofTshwane #NationalMonument

In 1936 the Pretoria City Council bought the portion of land with both the tree and the fort were on. The nature reserve was proclaimed in March 1937. Photo Credit Kim Williams Nikon Wonderboom Nature Reserve Pretoria #nikon #adventurekimcom #urbanadventures #heritiage #figtree #AngloBoerFort #JacarandaCity #ancienttrees #Ndebele #voortrekkers #hikingtails #Joziwalks #cityofTshwane #NationalMonument

The tree is regarded as the one the biggest in the world and many festivities have been held here. Old day of the Vow, the December 16 public holiday know known as the Day of Reconciliation.

Data recorded that this parasite infestation, which resulted in the tree be placed under a 20 year quarantine, was in fact a parasitic fungus that had originated elsewhere. It had been spread by sticking to the soles of visitors shoes. To date there has been no further spread which is why we are standing here today. However heritage like this needs to be protected and these really beautiful walkways offer protection to the trees roots and trunks from pedestrian traffic while allowing us to get up really close to this unique spectacle. Please be mindful when walking around the tree. Don't be a chop and destroy what your grandchildren will be able to enjoy.

In 1934 an organisation bought a part of the Wonderboom farm and cultural heritage. Then in 1940 the council bought another portion which now included land on the southern slopes and the Wonderboom Nature reserve was proclaimed in May 1949.

Standing under the canopy and looking upwards at it's magnificent ceiling, you cannot help be for a moment to be transported into another world of magical wonder. You can hear the leaves rustling in the wind while been serenaded by the busy birds enjoying their ancient hideout. There are some 200 species of birds that can be found within the reserve. You will also find the Verreauxii/ Black eagles which breed regularly. There nest will be found on the rocky ledge. We find a breeding pair of these also at the Walter Sisulu Botanical Gardens near the water fall, back in Johannesburg.

Wonderboom Nature Reserve has a large number of dassies (rock hyrax) living in caves overlooking the Apies River. They provide a food source for a breeding pair of black eagles that nest on a rocky ledge nearby and that can often be seen circling above the reserve

Apparently there are zebra, impala, rock hyrax (dassie), porcupine, various small mammals, reptiles and amphibians can be seen. We did see a dassie but no other animals, however I did see buck droppings.

The back view of the Wonderboom Fig tree complex. Photo Credit Kim Williams Nikon Wonderboom Nature Reserve Pretoria #nikon #adventurekimcom #urbanadventures #heritiage #figtree #AngloBoerFort #JacarandaCity #ancienttrees #Ndebele #voortrekkers #hikingtails #Joziwalks #cityofTshwane #NationalMonument

While researching I found these really great photos of what the original fig tree looked like over 100 years ago. These photos were found on google on the National Archives search.

(Image sources: National Archives, Wikipedia Commons)

(Image sources: National Archives, Wikipedia Commons)

(Image sources: National Archives, Wikipedia Commons)

Ok so as mentioned we got a little lost while getting there and ended up on the wrong side of the reserve. If you drive northwards on Paul Kruger Street (R101) and Mansfield Avenue for about 6 to 7 km from the city centre you will need to turn right onto the M1 immediatly after the road goes through the opening in the Magaliesberg range. Cross the Apies river and the entrance is on your right about 300 m from the R101.

GATE TIMES: Nature Conservation West Telephone: (012) 440 8316 / 341 5204 Fax: (012) 341 0483 Management: (012) 567 4296 Wonderboom Nature Reserve gate: (012) 543 0918 E-mail: groenkloofnaturereserve@tshwane.gov.za Website: Summer (September - April) 07h00 - 18h00 Winter (May - August) 07h00 - 18h00 (Entrance to nature reserve will only be allowed until 1 hour before closing time)

The Team Zodwa Project ™

Member: FGASA (Field Guides Association of Southern Africa)
Member: Vincent de Paul Victory Park (St Charles Catholic Church)

Photo Credits: Kim Williams Copyright

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