Injisuthi - Van Heyningen's Pass
Injisuthi Drakensberg - World Heritage site - Van Heyningen's Pass hike - 8Km 3 hours round trip.
I never get tired of Injisuthi. The area is huge and no matter how many times I return, I discover something new and hike a different route. I had 4 days off so I packed my Suzuki Jimny and dragged my hubby along for a 3 night stay at Injisuti camp with my hiking buddies, the Millers who reside in Durban. We had recently hiked 4 days to the High Berg up Judges pass to summit Mafadi the highest point in South Africa. But the next 3 days would be a time to relax, chill around a camp fire, drink red wine and hike some of the day hikes around Injisuti.
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Camp Miller at Injisuti Camp
So where is this Injisuti? (note there are several variations in the spelling of Injisuti). It is situated in the central section of the Maloti- Drakensberg Park, cradled between the Injisuthi (or Little Tugela) and Cowl Fork Rivers at the head of the breathtaking Injisuthi Valley. The camp and area is surrounded by beautiful scenery and majestic mountains. It is dominated by the towering walls of Cathkin Peak, Monks Cowl and Champagne Castle.
 
SOME BASIC RULES OF THE RESERVE:
When you arrive please check in at the reception office which is open between 08:00 - 12:30 and 14:00 - 16:30 daily.
Don't forget to obtain an exit permit from the reception office before your departure. Please remember NO Fires are allowed.
Hikers must also please remember that only official overnight camp stops may be used.
Credit cards are accepted. (Master card and Visa only). No generators are permitted in the campsites.
Motorcycles may only be used as transport to and from the park or within the camp area. No music/radios/drones allowed
Gate entry times:
Summer (1 October - 31 March) 05:00-19:00
Winter (1 April - 30 September) 06:00-18:00 Fridays Summer (1 October to 31 March) 05:00-20:00
Winter (1 April - 30 September) 06:00-19:00
We got up to a beautiful day for hiking, had breakfast then made our way to the reception office to fill in the hiking register (Mountain Rescue Register). It is important to remember that this is the "Berg" and as such ,the weather is predictably unpredictable!!. Experiencing 4 seasons in one single day is common and what starts off as a hot day can quickly turn bitterly cold and one should always be prepared and well equipped. PLEASE NOTE: The Mountain Rescue Register must to be completed before you begin your hike and again to sign out when you get back. Ensure that you complete the Mountain Rescue Register correctly and in detail. It is very often the only information the rescue team has to go on if you have an accident or get lost. When you leave the park, it is essential that you record your return in the Mountain Rescue Register.Failure to do so wastes valuable time for managers during rescue operations. Your life may depend on this information so don't be a chop and shrug this off.
 
Once that was done we were on our way. It was really hot and clouds were starting to build. Most times you are guaranteed the 14h00 thunderstorm. This hike is a quick 3 hour hike so we expected to be back by lunch. This easy hike is a firm favorite with many of Injisuti visitors and regulars. This is one walk you can take your kids along and does not require you to be super fit. Obviously with any walking in and around mountains the fitter you are the more you will enjoy your time in our beautiful mountains.
We made our way between Chalet 3 and 4 to the marked path. here we crossed over the Delmhlwaziwe River via a wooden footbridge. you could see what remained of the old bridge that was washed away. the berg rivers fill up quickly and the water runs fiercely after heavy rain and thunderstorms. As you cross over you walk along a floodplain. It had recently been burnt so the contrast of black, the bright green shoots, the white tall gum trees, brown and green hills with wild flowers made for a very dramatic and interesting landscape. The path follows the north bank of the stream for about 1.5km.
These beautiful white flowers were all over the flood plains and lower reaches
  
 
  
the white trunks of the Gum trees creating stark and dramatic scenes
 
we found many bushes of various fruits and berries providing food to the birds and smaller animals
many trees had fallen over the years leaving interesting exposed root systems.
This photo of Ian standing tall really came out well.
 
In the middle stood a lone tree that Ian had pointed out to us commenting that it looked like Pacman!! all that is needed is a bit of wind and that tree will come down!
I had to stop a million times to take photos of all the tiny wild flowers which we don't often see once the grass had grown tall.
We then turned right and started to walk up the hill gaining height in a easterly direction then in a more south easterly direction. Once we got to the contour line we turned right again and headed north as we followed the path with the campsite below us on our right.
The everlasting flowers range from pale pink to cerise pink. We also spotted white and yellow ones but certainly the pink was more prolific at this time of the year.
     
What would a 'Berg hike be without our entertaining Baboons! What should you do if you come across them while on a hike? Well there are a few things to bear in mind. See below.
 
Take a deep breath and remember that the troop of baboons are not eyeing you out as their next meal. You are not that special! These beautiful creatures are not driven to attack and eat you, but if you threatened their territory or you have something that they want, like food, they may be driven to defend themselves or act out
to get what they want. Sounds like a five year old child! Yes they can become dangerous when they feel threatened or when they have been allowed to associate us humans with food. (Our fault not theirs). Remember they are wild animals and not pets, so show respect and treat them as such.
Just like most animals, the large male baboons will defend the rest of their troop. Its a guy thing. If you get too close to them then the male may suddenly appear from nowhere and stand between you and the others. More than likely he will show his very large front teeth. This is a warning sign - take heed of it, don't be a chop and think you can scare him off as he will more than likely charge at you. He will also vocalize sounds of alarm when he feels threatened. Those long sharp incisors and incredibly powerful jaws can break bones and even kill. This is the wilderness and we are in their territory not the other way round. Respect that.
 
Some 101 Baboon encounter survival tips while hiking!
In the many years that I have hiked, I have come across many Baboons on their own or in troops with out incident. I keep well away, don't ever come between them and their babies and just leave them be and they leave me alone.
Our Baboons mostly are found on Africa’s savannahs and in woodlands. They are however rather adaptable creatures and can live in varying environments provided a water source is available and of course a safe place to sleep, like up in trees or along cliffs.
This handsome guy is eating plants while the wind blows him a new hairdo! Baboons will eat mainly plants and fruits but they can venture off their daily menu and eat hares, birds, small monkeys and antelope. This troop carried on their business while we took photos and carried on walking past them. They of course pretended that they had not noticed us but we knew better. They are crafty little buggers.
  
  
Up on the grassy contours the grasses and flower changed.
   
The big rock - a lone boulder than many years ago fell from the top and came to rest here.
 
All along the "berg floor" you will find boulders dotted around the lower reaches many have trees growing in and around them. The roots end up splitting the rocks.
More wild berries that were now flowering
We spotted 2 black cows which should not be here at all. When we arrived at Injisuti we noticed that herds of cattle had been allowed into the buffer zone. This is not acceptable and diseases can be introduced to the wild life. Also the smaller ecosystems will be affected and as such the whole environment with regards to plants, insects etc can be altered and in time have catastrophic impact on the World Heritage site. We hope this will be addressed as a matter of urgency before its too late.
The valleys are really pretty from up here and we passed several large rocks that had fallen at some stage from the cliffs above us. Hubby came along and turned back just before the forest. It was his turn to cook dinner and was making us one of his famous mutton curries.
The path turned sharply as we entered into the stunning narrow wooded valley. The forest floor offered an immediate drop in temperature, natures own air conditioner! Here in the forest we would cross the stream twice on its eastern bank. We re-cross the stream once gain towards its western bank (1680 m) before we found ourselves back out in the open again.
 
The water is clean and refreshingly cold and safe to drink. The forest is magical and you will be forgiven in expecting fairies to be dancing on the "monkey ropes" as the ancient yellow woods stand majestically from the forest floor and tower high upwards to the sky above.
The rocks and boulders you use to cross over the stream are covered in moss and water so they are slippery and a walking stick comes in handy here.
 
In the forest areas there are many large roots so watch you step. The huge vines and twisted branches make for some very interesting photos.
   
Along the forest rail we came across some high walls of sandstone.
 
This very large boulder looker rather perilous and it would be just a matter of time before it rolled causing a rock fall and landslide in its wake. Luckily not today.
 
The very old yellow woods had really thick trunks with interesting patterns and "attachments".
We found several types of ferns along the forest floor and up on the rock walls as we started walking up the pass.
 
Above in no 18 on of the really huge and ancient Yellow Woods
Once back in the open again you find yourself in the narrow valley and make your way up the narrow gorge. The towering sandstone blocks are spectacular and you feel engulfed by them. the patterns and weathering that the rain, run off and wind have created is quiet breathtaking. One even looked like a version of the "finger of God", a famous landmark in now Namibia which collapsed many years ago.
making our way up the Van Heyning's Pass
  
 
The huge sandstone columns and walls that line the pass are really magnificent.
       
Once up at the top you can turn left to walk to the lookout spot or first turn right and make your way towards the huge flat rock towards the cairn (man made rock pile). the views are quiet spectacular. Once Ian and I had taken a couple of photos we then made our way back to the top of the pass and continued along the path to the viewing point to meet up with Wendy.
       
Great views of the chalets and our camp below us
  
The path takes you along the edge overlooking Injisuthi Camp. Giant's Castle can be seen to the south.
On top of the Little Berg, on the far side of the Injisuthi River, is the Injisuthi Outpost. On a clear day this spot is a really good place to orientate yourself to what lies below you. The views over Monk's Cowl and Champagne Castle are fantastic. Looking Southwards along the line of jagged peaks on a clear day the view extends as far as the impressive wall of Giants Castle. You look up at Cowl Fork valley with its jagged bits of Monk's Cowl 3229m. Monk's Cowl is perched rather dramatically between the flat blocks of Champagne Castle and Cathkin Peak. Looking down you can clearly see the paths in all directions.
  
Today the paths were far more distinct due to the controlled burning over the past few weeks. We found a small protea bush which offered some shade to drink our water and eat our snacks. I walked around a bit to both sides to get a panoramic view of the Berg. There were several large birds flying around mostly crows. When the birds come up close you realize just how high you really are!
  
We could see the storm clouds building so it was time to make up and walk back down. The walk back is all down hill and when it has rained using a walking stick or trekking pole is a really good idea to avoid slipping down and to help balance you a bit more. We met some people along the forest path who were still making their way back up. As we came out the forest and made our way along the contour path we could hear distance rolling thunder and was rather happy we were close to camp.
Coming back down through the forest I snapped a photo of the twisted branches
 
The two black cows where still grazing on the new green shoots.
 
With lightening starting to flash ahead and rolling thunder we made for one of the escape routes. Large drops started to fall and there were still people up on top. the storm had come 2 hours earlier than expected.
   
We came across our buddies again who where not in the least perturbed by the lightening and thunder.
  
We crossed over the foot bridge and made our way to the office to sign back in and rush to our tent for a cup of tea!!
 
While walking back to our campsite we came across some school kids who were waiting for their guide to take them to an overnight cave. they were really not properly kitted out for the huge storm and hail they were about to hike in. they were in shorts and some in takkies. Their backpacks had not waterproofing and when we asked if they at least had rain jackets the answer was no. But they informed us they were with a professional guide. I wondered what guide would start an overnight walk at lunchtime in the Drakensberg and walk a group out exposed to the lightening and thunder. Glad they were not my children. Most certainly would never recommend this guide to anyone.
It was 12h15 when we got back to camp to the smell of hubby's curry on the brew. We then quickly put out lunch (left overs and bits and pieces that created a yummy spread) as the heavens opened and lightening cracked over head. The storm had arrived earlier than usual and further up the mountain the hikers were caught in a hail storm. The group that was leaving would have got wet and cold as well as their belongings. I'm sure they had a wonderful time in their overnight cave!
While we were munching Ian gave us a bit of background history to Van Heyningen's pass. We found out that it was named after the forester in charge of the Monk's Cowl Forest Station in the 1930s.
Injisuthi is situated in the uKhahlamba- Drakensburg Park, South Africa’s first cultural and environmental World Heritage Site. Something we need to be mindful about and make every effort to preserve it for our grandchildren and their children to come. We need to obey the rules when hiking and staying in the caves. The hiking groups need to be small to lower the impact on the environment and caves. Breaking these rules causes huge damage to the fragile ecosystems and caves.
 
The exceptional natural beauty of the uKhahlamba- Drakensburg Park is breathtaking and its such a privilege to be able to experience one of the worlds treasures. It has endless rows of huge soaring basaltic buttresses, iconic golden sandstone ramparts filled with hidden art and treasures, its forever rolling high altitude grasslands where you may spot Eland grazing to its breath taking steep-sided river valleys and deep rocky gorges. This areas just explodes with such a rich rock biodiversity coupled with so many endemic species.
 
Your eyes feast on the spectacular natural landscape which has produced many rock shelters, some still hidden, yet to be discovered. These rock shelters contain the largest and most concentrated group of paintings in Africa, south of the Sahara. These were created by the San people over a period of at least 4000 years and depict life as they knew it and representing the spiritual life of the San people who no longer live in the region. Many of the rock paintings are still in good condition are of a really good quality. Over the years the paintings have been documented and studied.
      
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Photo Credits: Kim Williams Copyright
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Kim Williams | Adventurer | Founder The Team Zodwa Project & Adventure with a purpose | Finalist Johnny Walker/Sunday Times Nation’s Greatest Hero Award | #Reachoutbeahero & #Adventurewithapurpose & #Trek4Hunger Ambassador |Brand Ambassador Eatfresh SA| Public Speaker|Facilitator| Outstanding Founders list @MagnificHQ |Outstanding People List @GirlsRunThings | Blogger| Fizzical National Everyday Hero Winner
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