Adventure with a Purpose: Mt Elbrus Expedition Day 2 #trek4choc #trek4kidzwithcancer

Day 2 on the mountain brought about it some bad weather building up. Initially it looked as thought it may clear up.

We had our breakfast with a brief on today's acclimatization training which included getting really familiar with our crampons (those teeth we put under our boots) for me being a bit on the clumsy side this could prove to be rather entertaining. I don

t wear heels (image me in heels fighting a fire) and crampons at times felt damn close to wearing heels!!

Our training session would take us up to 4800m today reaching the well known landmark of the Pastukhov Rocks then we would return to our warm huts, have lunch, rest then have dinner and start packing for the summit if you had not already done so. We would hopefully get a good nights sleep in befor tomorrows safety and ice axe training then spend the afternoon resting.

We had noticed that over the last hour or so, the weather had begun to change. A huge lenticular cloud seemed to be building up around the summit. I remember seeing one of these on my last Kilimanjaro climb in October last year and it brought about it a hectic but rather exciting snow storm and I got to hike on proper snow for the first time. I was trying not to worry too much about the weather, while we sat outside chatting and taking a few photos, but I could not help but notice the weather was turning bad. Every time I looked up at Elbrus the visibility was getting worse and the blue sky was all but gone as was the top of the twin peaks.

Most of us were outside getting ourselves ready as it looked as though we may have a window of acceptable weather, when suddenly the weather really turned and it started to move in very quickly. We had to bring all the equipment back inside as it had started to rain. Fog was filling up the base camp as it snaked its way over the valley below towards our containers, creeping in like an eerie blanket under and over our little havens we called home and threatened more bad weather to follow. This was not good!!

Suddenly from nowhere lightening striked and everyone ran for cover followed by hail and snow. This is what Elbrus is famous for - quick punishing weather in a blink of an eye. This is what makes Elbrus unpredictable and dangerous. The entire camp site was now in darkness because the lightening bolt had found its mark. We actually heard it as it hit the steel pole of our dinning-room. We had to use our headlamps inside the containers for several hours. It would really have been great to have been able to get some hot chocolate!! The hail and rain pelted against the windows and luckily my "fireman makes a plan rescue" of our leaking window had proved to withstand this storm". The temperatures dropped sharply and rolling thunder could be heard close by and we really felt the cold for the first time at base camp. It was freezing, wet and looked bleak for tomorrow nights summit attempt.

On the first day Gaven and I had made a very functional wash line - I had brought some thin rope along and after today it was now fulled up with beanies, gloves, socks and gaiters. Luckily we had good jacket hooks as well an an allocated area where we kept all the boots, ski poles,harnesses and ice axes out of everyone's way to avoid accidents. We also had a table below the washing line where we could put our backpacks on. This all helped keep all our bedding and other cloths dry. A great tip we got from Heinrich was to take our damp and wet items and place them into the bottom of our sleeping bags when we slept. It did take a bit of convincing that that this would work. This really worked and the damp items were dry by the next morning. I know it defies logic but its science and once you get over the logic thing and see it working you are converted!!

The standard route up Elbrus is long and strenuous but not technically difficult. The biggest danger is the weather which can be particularly nasty on this mountain. There are so many factors that make this mountain unique and susceptible to weather extremes besides that this is a proper alpine climb in itself. For me this creates some excitement and a challenge. There are a few routes up this mountain and besides the standard route and the northern route, there are many more difficult routes on the mountain, though they are very seldom climbed. This said even though the standard route on the mountain is technically easier than some of the bigger alpine mountains, do not be lulled into this and make the mistake of under estimating this beautiful deceiving Mt Elbrus. Why?, well we just need to look at the number of deaths (some even say that" Elbrus is one of the World's deadliest mountains" but that was before all the recent Everest tragedies so I am not sure if this still stands therefore I cannot verifying this or dismiss it), however 48 climbers taking into account some were skiers or snowboarders all died in the Mt Elbrus region in 2004 alone. Okay so we were in luck this was 2016 not 2004 we were making our own rules now and I had no plans to go home in a body bag even though someone had told me that according to the "numbers world" I might end up it one while on Elbrus - was really a comforting thought. But I don't believe in that stuff. I am a Christian and a practicing Catholic but each to their own! God would be my guide, protector and strength as he always is on the mountains. When you look up at Elbrus you can see that is much taller than the mountains surrounding it. (1 mile some references say). This is also a contributor to the very intense, extreme changes which you can experience in such a short time. Temperatures can drastically change from comfortable to arctic temps, like -40F. It has been said that it takes 25,000 steps to make it to the summit of Elbrus. Quiet a feat I would say and something to consider when training for Elbrus and I am sure it brings a smile to those of you who count your steps. I actually left my Fitbit at home and it would have been interesting to see what the readings would have been. In honestly though 25 000 steps does not measure the pure intensity of those steps nor the effort involved. I am sure its really like doing 100 000 steps!!

On the mountain the weather changes quickly (we have something similar in our own backyard in the Drakensburg Mountains and have had many people die and get stranded needing to be rescued- not Elbrus but the closest thing we have in South Africa so forgive me) and unfortunately we were witnessing this bad weather first hand. I was told it normally worsens in afternoon. This is why it was important that we needed to start our descend from the summit not later than at 2 p.m. For this reason there is a cut off time as to when you will need to turn back if you are making slow progress, no matter how great or fast you think you can make it. it is just too risky for all involved. The fog that often creeps up on Elbrus creates an obvious danger for the climbers, that is a no brainer you would have to be pretty dense to expect otherwise. When you cannot see anything in front of you, you obviously will not know in which direction to descend. Believe me it is really very disorientating and as such it is easy to get lost or to fall into a crevasse if there is no experienced guide with you. It was for this reason why I was really glad I had booked with a well known and professional team like ADI (Adventure Dynamics International) to guide me safety up and down the mountain. The climate is most conducive to climbing in July and August, when the weather is at its most stable. Even in the summer, nighttime temperatures average 18 F (- 8 C). Temperatures above the snowline can fall as low as minus 22 F (-30 C) during the day during the winter. Winter is coldest in the western part. It lasts from October to April above 6,562 feet (2,000 m). Even though the mountain is inland remember that it lies between the Caspian Sea and the Black Sea. The result is that these 2 large large bodies of water have an impact on wind and precipitation. And a big impact it does!!

The storm clouds looming and creating lots of worry within the camp and all the various teams from around the world

Mt Elbrus’ prominence [which is simply a measure of how distinct a mountains is from nearby peaks ] is 5642m (4,741 m according to other references a bit confusing but all the plates T-shirts, beer and coffee are marked 5642m so I going with that. Cheers and after lots of Vodka shoots who cares actually except that you survived with all your fingers and toes!!!) , making it the 10th most prominent mountain in the world. The east summit is slightly lower and it sits on a moving tectonic area, and has been linked to a fault.The Caucasus Mountains are the result of a tectonic plate collision between the Arabian plate moving northward to the Eurasian plate. They actually form a continuation of the Himalaya, which are being pressed upwards by a similar collision zone with the Eurasian and Indian plates. The entire region is regularly subjected to strong earthquakes from this activity, especially as the fault structure is complex with the Anatolia/Turkey and Iranian Blocks flowing side-wise, which prevents subduction of the advancing plate edge and hence the lack of volcanoes (though some minor dome structures, such as Elbrus' peaks, do exist). Such big things to know hey?

The view just before the big storm from my window - note the packet of hot chocolate in the Ziploc bag

storm brewing those clouds where moving really fast towards us - The storm was building from both sides.

A supply of magma lies deep beneath the dormant volcano. A great bit of knowledge to know while sitting at base camp that your butt could be fried. !! It was formed more than 2.5 million years ago and is currently considered inactive. This is a huge relief and right now with the weather closing in, the lightening, ice and freezing cold the last thing we needed was an eruption to add to our woes!! According to the Global Volcanic program the last eruption happened a long time back in AD50. So this got my blood pumping a little when I read that evidence of more recent volcanic activity included several lava flows on the mountain which looked fresh (how fresh they did not elaborate) and roughly around 260 square km (100sq mi) of volcanic debris. Shit this was enough to make me pack and head back down the mountain and break a descend speed record. How recent are we talking here? millions of years or now.? I could not find a more definite timeline. the information continued to mention that there are other signs of activity on the volcano including sofataric activity and hot springs. Okay so I had no idea what sofataric activity meant - I had visuals of me cooking with tartaric acid and fat creating some kind of chemical explosion requiring some really hunky looking fire fighters rushing to my aid came to mind, so I needed to look this one up. Even my spell check checked out on this one!! [ sofataric - "the name is derived from the fields of sulphurous gas vents at the Solfatara crater, north of Naples, Italy. When cooled by the atmosphere the escaping gases deposit many mineral which include chlorides, sulfur and hematite hence solfataric activity.] The western summit has a well-preserved volcanic crater about 250 m in diameter. Okay so here I sit on my bunk and I learn about this now?? Maybe that is why all the water bodies and rivers have been milky in colour. Alright then moving along rather swiftly.

While the lack of big crevasses we often find on other alpine mountains can lull climbers into a false sense of safety, the Standard Route is challenging due to the deep snow, high winds and a high elevation. The winds in the saddle can reach 60-70 kmph. I have mates that I climbed Kilimanjaro with back in 2009 - 3 fit army dudes who literally got blown off their feet and one even got blown past the rest of the team. They were broken and exhausted but lived to summit and tell the tale to me. I still came. About 15 to 30 climbers die each year, which is a fairly high ratio of climbers to climber deaths when compared to other mountains. But lets get real here, climbing at altitude and facing adverse weather conditions is dangerous, we know that, that's why we are here, to be challenged to another level. Way out of your comfort zone - time to smash right out that everyday box you are in. Hell I could get shot working on my response car in Hillbrow or Jeppestown, its not like I haven't been shot at a few times. I could get killed responding to an emergency or reversing out my driveway. Hell I could have a stroke and die I am at that age now. Life is short. you can either wrap yourself up in cotton wool or got out and live it. I choose to live it and push it. Am I being irresponsible because I am a wife and a mother of 3. If I was a man would it be more acceptable. You are speaking to Zena Princess Warrior here who is an Advanced Life Support Paramedic/Rescue tech/ fire fighter who also goes to world disasters like the Nepal earthquake for free, so my day job puts my body more on the line than this does if you are looking to split hairs. Being a EMT/FF or policeman here in my valley is more dangerous than working in Beirut, but I love it. The difference is one I actually get paid to nearly die and do crazy shit and the other I have to pay a professional to help me die. At least I hope I don't die yet as I have lots of adventures still to go on and to blog about. Personally I think it rather irresponsible not to live out your passion and dreams. It makes you a better person, a better wife and mother, so don't judge me. You will understand once you have found your passion in life. Lets hope you find it before you die. My grand-kids are going to have epic stories to tell their mates about their crazy grandmother who always pushed out the envelope and lived life to the full. My grand-kids will think I am the really cool gran the other gran can knit and bake cookies and I will come over for tea.

Mount Elbrus has an incredible 22 glaciers that feed three rivers — Baksan, Malka and Kuban. You can see some of the glaciers as you make your way up and from base camp. They are breathtaking and a real visual treat. The mountain is covered with snow all year-round. In winter summit attempts are not usually done due to the harsh winter conditions which keep all but the most experienced climbers off the mountain. The slopes become a hub of activity with day trips with families and skiers taking advantage of the slopes covered in snow. Summer is when it opens for the mental people like us who wish to stand on its summit, having punished our bodies and numbed our brains, waving our national flags, trying to phone mom, crying with pure relief that we made it alive to this point, then sobering up when you realize that it was far from over - we still had to make it back down to the bottom. Alive. We were indeed only half way! Nothing like that for a reality check. Always about the journey up and back down not so much about the summit - that is only one photo opportunity.

Map from Google Images shows Terskol village below where our hotel is as well as where Mt Cheget is in relation to the summit of Mt Elbrus. A really cool map!!

some of the ice fields with crevasses creating beautiful patterns

What seemed to be forever and a day ended as the bad weather cleared and we had a safe window. It was time to get out our warm containers and brave the icy cold and embrace alpine life!! We quickly got ready and started to make our way towards our goal, Pastukhov Rocks. The snow was harder than the day before and there was a lot less slushy bits to navigate. We were reminded that tomorrow on summit attempt we need to remember where the pools of slushy water were and to avoid them at all costs when we make our way towards the snow cats. Should you fall into one your summit attempt will be over. Period. Very sobering reminder.

So what were these rocks and how did they get their name? Epic fail I hunted the web and only found reference to astrology and the number 7. When you look at the rock pile it is in a shape of the No 7. so its name does make sense but I was hoping for a more profound and sensible and romantic reason for its name. But there it is. No epic story or tale.

The going was heavier than the day before. I found myself breathless often in the beginning then I would remember the breathing techniques that Heinrich had drummed into us. Once I got into the breathing rhyme I got my mojo back and my legs got stronger as oxygen fed the muscles. I loved the sound of the ice and snow as it crunches under your crampons almost the same pleasure one gets from popping plastic bubble wrap except more epic and your butt is freezing!! Andre and I had a date, we were hoping to lie in the snow and make snow angels but up until now the weather was not going to allow us to do this. It would have been stupid as we would have got properly wet and cold. I needed to redeem myself from my last Kilimanjaro climb I recently did in 2015. I made snow angels after summit night on the way back down. I thought they were really cool until I saw the photos later. Rather than these perfect snow angels I had actually made these rather weird looking aliens that looked as though they were carved by a drunken pirate who escaped an asylum more than from a partially sane mountain chick like me!! From base camp we went up and on a clear day when you look to the eastern summit (which is closest) you will see some rocks halfway, these are the Pastukhov rocks, 4800m and our goal today. It was a long haul certainly much further and harder than it looked.

Yvonne happy chappy!!!

All along the way on our right we found a track of marker poles some white (looking at our surroundings did not make sense) and some with flags or tags and these become very useful during the whiteouts. Something we were about to experience. Which lead me to the conclusion that this is a common occurrence on Elbrus. Once you have to make permanent markers it kinds says it all.

Sherry all smiles - the weather was changing and we still had to get up to the rocks!!

When you continue along the marker poles towards the rocks the route gets steeper and I was thankful for the crampons. I was slowly getting the hang of this. On summit night the snow is frozen solid and I needed to master this critical skill today. Huff - puff -Kick and dig and leave a nice step for the climber behind you. As the people in front of me got tired some of the snow steps got broken and needed to be built up again. It was also hard trying to step into some of the guys steps which were much wider than mine making you really use a lot of extra energy as you kicked new steps in or had to reach a bit further to fit your boots into their boot prints. We all eventually got into the zone and by summit night the steps were perfect until all hell broke loose. but that is for later. Breathing was of paramount importance or you would " konk" out very early on in the game. Yvonne, Sherrie and I were practicing our breathing and sounded like panting dogs until we got the hang of it then we were so owning it!!

This was tough going in the cold, strong wind and snow - those lungs and quads working hard!!

From Pastukhov rocks the route bends slightly to the left until it traverses to the saddle between the two summits. there you will pass the remains of an old hut on the saddle and will traverse. But today we were just going to the rocks. The old hut on the saddle would play a crucial role in keeping two stranded climbers alive for a couple of days.

Image: Google Maps

Gaven and Sherrie the historical couple from Aussie - was a real hoot having them with us and when the going got tough you could always count on the two of them breaking the ice and having us in stitches - hope I get to go on an adventure with them in the near future!!

Heinrich our guide making it look so so easy!!!!

Daniel who reminded me so much of my eldest son was very strong always in control and I learnt a great deal from him. he has such a quiet and gently spirit but nerves of steel!!

Wayne was here before - he had to turn back just below the saddle due to extreme bad weather and was hoping this time around Mother Nature would be kind - so did we. Wayne has scaled some really big mountains and 8000m peaks so was a great source of advice and knowledge! Suzanne was struggling a bit being new to this and had also not been able to train properly for Elbrus, but I was super proud of her making it this far. After today this became her summit day and sadly she did not join us on summit night staying behind at base camp in the warm container. waiting for us.

Wayne getting iced up with ice and snow!!

The weather was really getting bad now and some of us were struggling a bit. It was taking some of us a bit longer to reach the 4 800 mark and some of the faster guys pushed on to get to 5000m. The weather was really getting messy now.

I love this photo each of us going through our own personal battles to get to our goal. I am in the middle here in pink/red of course. The wind had picked up and was really strong and you needed to keep yourself grounded not to fall over. The worst part of this was when you needed to pee Check no trees, no rock or snowmen to hide behind, totally open and exposed. . You are dressed warmly in multiple layers and now you have to expose your bare bum to the world and every Tom, Dick and Harry walking by. There is no time for being bashful here either you hold it in or drop the brooks, bear the bum,squat and hope everyone looks the other way as you make your mark in the white snow hoping the wind does not blow you over and your dignity gone forever.. This is when I wish I was a boy. Lets say I would rather forget the experience for reasons I cannot put in print. but my face was rather rosy for days afterwards each time I thought of it.

In 1829, the east summit was first climbed by Kilar Khashirov, and in 1868, the west summit was climbed by Douglas Freshfield, and statues of both of these men stand at the entrance to the Elbrus area, I would liked to have seen these statues but did not and the locals believe that they are the Protectors of the Area. It is great when you are stuck inside a tiny space with the weather belting outside and you have nothing else to do but read and find out all about this amazing mountain while you are actually on it, living it and cannot turn back!!

Once we reached our goal Yvonne took out her personal flag. I loved Yvonne always full of beans and laughter. She loves hats and shoes so when we got back down to the village she needed to buy a Russian hat which lead to some very funny antics I will share later. She has climbed several mountains including Kilimanjaro and Aconcagua and it was great being on Elbrus with her.

After the pics and congrats at our achievements with today's training it was time for the long haul downwards. This is really difficult and takes a lot more concentration than going up. Many of us enjoyed a few spills and near misses. I fell down a few times and yesterday Sherrie had the record for the longest bum slide. Today would be my turn. a few seconds combined with fatigue, lack of concentration, not being the most graceful human in the world (I never passed the ugly duckling stage and I never became a swan) and hooking my front teeth of my crampons (not sure how that happens but I did it and I did it really well - great Oscar award here for doing my own stunts) I flew, then smashed into the snow, slid on my bum, spun around a few times (of course) and came to a stop. Suddenly some guy had hooked his crampons in mine and stretched his hand out to me. I went red and I think I started to melt the snow and slowly sink myself into the hole I was hoping my butt was burning in the snow. I looked up at this gorgeous young man not much older than my son. He had amazing eyes and such a great smile how could I resist, besides his crampons were hooked in mine. I was not going anywhere even down regardless of whether I was melting snow or not. I smiled and said "yes please that is very kind of you" I think I made his day. He saved an old lady that wiped out. He was one of the rescue guys going up onto the mountain and was carrying a huge backpack bigger than me on his back with ropes and other gear. Wow this dude was really strong. I found out later that an old guy who was a well known local alpinist with years of experience was found dead in his tent. Sad but he was some 75 years old and he died what he loved doing. This was the only death while we were on the mountain. but above us in the saddle a life and death battle would play itself out.

Our loo when that wind blow I was really worried I was going over the edge - I was not the only one the boys had actually checked that it was bolted down.

The Team Zodwa Project ™

Member: FGASA (Field Guides Association of Southern Africa)
Member: Vincent de Paul Victory Park (St Charles Catholic Church)

Photo Credits: Kim Williams Copyright

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