Tankwa Karoo Camino 256 km 2 Provinces 10 days desert trek: cause; Red Cross Children's Hospital Day 10: 15 May 2016

Day 10 Tankwa Camino - the end!

We were all asked to leave a bit earlier today so that we could co-ordinate leaving Ceres at 11h00 to make our way back to Calvinia via taxi.

I had a great night sleep and was snug in my sleeping bag. I had packed all my bags and backpack last night so really only needed to sort out breakfast, fill up the water bottles and pull my tent down, for the last time on this adventure.

We waited until the first bits of lights erupted across the sky. It was not safe to walk in the dark due to the many heavy duty trucks travelling on this road. There was not any safe shoulder to speak of so we all made off with our head torches still on. I kept mine on for a little longer just in case one of the truck drivers failed to see me.

Leaving so early also had its advantages in that it was initially quieter and we could cover some ground before it got really busy. It was a pink, misty sunrise over Ceres as we made our last 15 km Journey of the Tankwa Camino. It was the last day that I had to endure the pain of my feet, I looked forward to a hot soaking bath, putting on clean cloths, eating a huge steak and hitting the sack! Bring it on!

Trips like these will bring out either the best or the worst in you. They say go backpacking with someone to find out who they really are.

This particular group was really a great bunch of people, willing to share and help each other out at the drop of a hat.

Each had their reasons why they took this journey and some said they were coming back to do their second Camino. We did have a bloke in our group who had already had 1 Tankwa Camino to his name.

As I struggled along with my feet I wondered if I would ever come back. I had thought about it and had mixed emotions. For most of us this was a once in a life time event, bucket-list block ticked off. Others were coming back with friends. I loved the open quiet spaces of the Karoo, the stillness of the sunrises and sunsets, the only sound is your breath as it leaves your body. The smells of the early morning and late afternoon fynbos, filling the air and your lungs. The sound of happy birds. The stories around the fire and the great Karoo cooking. I will miss the interactions with the people even though I prefer my own company or that of my dogs!.

The Tankwa Karoo is like no other place on earth, it is hard as it is beautiful, cruel as it is breathtaking, dead as it is alive, the colours, the miles and miles of seemingly vast nothingness until you stop, and really look and another secret world opens up to you if you allow it. Before I tackled this I wanted my 2 sons and even my hubby to come and join me one September when the famed and breathtaking Namaqualand Daises are on display. Now as I walk, my feet taking a pounding on the tar and my feet swiveled sideways on the uneven sidewalks, I was not sure.

What I do know is that after the first time I climbed Kilimanjaro I vowed I would not go back after experiencing a white-out, severe snow storm and -30 degree blizzards, suffering from frostbite and hypothermia, but I did and will again and again. Each time I have been into the mountains and hit bad weathers creating quiet an adventure I vow not to go back especially at that time of the year, but I do, have and will again. Why is that? For the most part the human brain remembers the bad but it also remembers the good and when there is more good than bad the bad memories fade leaving behind the warm and fuzzy ones that bring you back. What I do know is that I will not take on such a walk when I have injuries in my feet and legs especially both of them.... well I hope I don't and have learnt something but who knows, I am a chick who willingly runs into burning buildings, jumps off buildings hanging onto ropes (terrified I might add and I might scream a bit too) dodge bullets and mayhem for a living. So maybe it might happen again.

I think once the dust has settled and I have been on many other adventures and I have some extra time and cash I may try to tackle this Camino again. But this time with a group of mates, doing it alone is not great even though I am a bit of a loner. I watched the groups and pairs of people who helped each other out. Each member had a job to do for the entire group giving everyone time to sit, soak their feet and relax. Many hands make light work.

I got to fulfill a bucket list of my own - to drive the longest uninterrupted road in South Africa - ok I walked it in stead. I got to see the Tankwa Karoo first hand and walk in its desert and in between its fynbos. I got to smell fynbos. I got to see clean blue skies and breathtaking cloud formations. I got to experience a rare thunderstorm, an electrical storm, see lightening lighting up the desert floor and sky, hear thunder rolling along the flat never ending plains, feel the rain on my face, watch as huge rain drops hit the dry desert floor, see my reflection in pools of rain water in a desert. Walk in the rain and see flooding in the Tankwa Desert. I got to see the Tankwa River flooded never mind flowing. I got to see many shooting stars. I got to see the incredible milky way. I got to see breathtaking sunrises and sunsets. I got to camp under the Tankwa Stars and my cheap tent survived a sandstorm of epic proportions. I got to do river crossings on foot in a desert for Pete's sake!. I got to eat out at the iconic Tankwa Padstal. I got to see the busy little "road rats" on the side of the roads and a donkey cart. Looking back it was a pretty damn good adventure certainly I have something to tell and share that not many will have experienced especially in the Tankwa Karoo Desert!

It was really a beautiful morning and everyone was in good spirits and had an extra spring in their steps, which was largely due to it being the final day of walking and looking forward to that hot shower or soaking hot bubble bath. Others it was that ice cold beer or bit steak.

Ceres is really beautiful and I could easily see myself living here. There are many routes and roads that lead to Ceres in the Koue Bokkeveld. The dorp (small town) is famous for its fruit juices and snow. The valley produces the best deciduous fruit in South Africa as well as being known for its fresh and dried fruit and natural spring water (that I did not know). It has been dubbed South Africa's very own Little Switzerland, In December the very popular cherry-picking season takes place. There are many arts and craft places, rock art sites (I need to come back for that), private nature reserves (Kagga Kamma - I passed the sign boards as well as the 4x4 adventure sign boards) snowboarding, hiking , mountain biking and then there is that endless snow. Paradise. They say the days are usually warm with blue skies even when the mountains are snow capped. Think I need to come back with my hubby and stay a little while here to experience the snow first hand!

They have some of the best adventures here like the best zipline experience, 4x4 routes and steam train trips - pretty awesome I would think!.

The valley of Ceres, the Koue Bokkeveld and the open plains of the Tanqaua Karoo were first inhabited by the San and Khoi people some thousands of years ago.

You can travel on the restored historic steam trains through Michelle's Pass taking in the stunning and breathtaking views.

the sun takes a really long time to reach the top of the sky - so you have longer shadows and golden lighting great for longer photo ops!! in the distance one of the green loos being erected.

We took a little break here, snacks and some water then pushed on. I hurt too much to stop for too long and I just wanted to keep going and for the pain to end.

Google

Photo credit: Google - we passed many farms

Photo Credit: Google

We were asked to me careful as we made our way past an informal settlement on our left. On our right was a horse stud farm with huge high security fences. The crews from the Tankwa Camino waited on the other side until everyone was through. Working in Hillbrow has its advantages, I felt very safe here not at all threatened. Waved at everyone. It was Sunday so everyone was in good spirits quiet literary for some. There were large green fields for grazing and a family of black pot belly pigs. Lots of children where playing around nearby.

As we went around the corner this was the view. It was a special moment as just before we walked here a lady with a young boy walked up behind me and saw my flags for the Red Cross Children's Hospital attached to my back pack. She called out to me and told me that this young boy went there as a baby and that they saved him. She went on to tell me that the doctors and staff looking after him worked miracles and were very kind, I looked at this small framed little boy and high five'd him and my heart filled with gratitude and I was truly humbled that here of all places, so far away from big cities and civilization would be a past patient walking here and our paths crossed at that exact moment. Goosebumps this is why I was doing this, This is why my feet hurt so much. Amazing and suddenly all the pain in my feet went as I made the last few metres into the center of Ceres.

As we arrived these sweet little cherubs heralded us in and shouted "welcome to Ceres". We had a juice each, an apple and information brochures handed to us, then we made our way to the final stop.

some of the guys finishing before us and Wicus with his taped up crocs!!

As we made the final 800 m to the end I came across a red fire truck!! I was super excited to meet some brothers. It does not matter who or where you are but us EMT/FF share an unbreakable bond and automatically we are one, just like that. Great to meet you brothers be safe out there!

We ended our walk by walking back into time! The Ceres Transport Riders museum is where you can learn about the early days in Ceres, its people and its unusual and stunning fauna and flora. There are many wagons and carriages in excellent condition on display here and you can read up on the earthquake of 1969. Yipe we had an earthquake.

and then it was over just like that! Some were leaving straight from here back home while others where going back to Calvinia. I met up with one of the couples that had to leave early, it was really great to see them! Time to say goodbyes, time to reflect on "what the hell just happened", fix the feet and get ready and training for the next adventure, why because that's what I do. Period!

The Team Zodwa Project ™

Member: FGASA (Field Guides Association of Southern Africa)
Member: Vincent de Paul Victory Park (St Charles Catholic Church)

Photo Credits: Kim Williams Copyright

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