Tankwa Karoo Camino 256 km 2 Provinces 10 days desert trek: cause; Red Cross Children's Hospital Day 9: 14 May 2016

Today was the longest day of the Tankwa Camino and I woke up this morning feeling much stronger. The swelling had gone down enough that I could put socks on and my sandals. It was going to be a big ask today to walk on mostly tar and gravel road some 33 km. These shoes were not quiet made for this type of abuse, but I was going to give it a bash. I had my usual coffee and porridge and then broke down my tent. The guys were going to help Laura with her tent later and this would also give it a chance to dry out.

Leaving the beautiful Karoo Poort behind us covered in mist The Karoo Poort is a very old route followed by the first settlers, and together with the Hottentot Kloof, formed the only route to the north (and the Karoo) from Cape Town through Ceres. The road is a typical poort, with easy gradients, following the course of a (mainly dry) river-bed through a natural gap in the mountains. The construction was managed by Andrew Bain and built by Adam de Smidt, who would later become Andre Bain's son-in-law and Thomas Bain's brother in law. The pass is gravel, except for a small section of just over a kilometer and a half, where the tarring was no doubt done to protect the Karoopoort farm orchards from dust. The original old farmstead is on the left hand side of the road (west) and looking its age these days. It is the only farm in the poort. This is were we stayed. So cool to know its history!!

We walked for about 5 km on this dirt road and then it was back on the tar

We left as the sun was rising and manged to get some really great photographs, the lighting was really great. It was cool and I needed to wear my jacket and my gloves.

Loved the early morning mist and pink sky

We made our way up and out of Karoopoort as the sun began to come up over the mountains. I managed to get some rich sequence shots as some of the walkers made their way out of the poort.

This was taken behind me

This was in front of me

That was Wicus infront of me - he was now walking in his Crocs which he had now bound with duck tape - "a Boer Maak a Plan" as we say in South Africa. He finished up strong but in pain right up until the end. He was always great to walk with, had us all laughing forgetting our pain!

The mist was slowly lifting and even though the sun was coming through it was still a bit nippy so the jackets stayed on for a bit longer.

You can just see the hikers coming through as the sun explodes into the morning mist.

What an incredible sight 40 km to go before we enter Ceres and the finish. Love this photo one of my favorite of the Camino. I knew now that I would finish this no matter what!

Many of these big yellow municipal trucks passed us going back and forth.

Love this photo of Wayne - Maarten, Laura, Wayne and myself taking a quick break, why here there were perfect sitting rocks!!.

Just love these photos of the mist rolling in - these views were keeping me going - homeward bound!

and here comes Maarten before he joined us!

Break over and off we go again. The bigger fynbos, rolling hills, colourful fields, blue skies and the many birds chirping inside the yellow-green heath was fantastic.

I arrived at this spot just as the crews had finished erecting the iconic green loos. I was taking in a lot more water than I had been and needed to pee that more often! Today I was the one to christen the loo.

Laura finding a level piece to walk on. It was too dangerous to walk on the tar for the most part we had to walk on the side of the roads. The cars drive at unbelievable speeds here and we witnessed many crazy stunts by drivers. We even had guys in rally cars come speeding past us taking risks around corners and onto on coming traffic, not sure what they were doing racing on a public road, irresponsible actually.

We now entered Theronsberg Pass.

climbing the passes were perfect for me I flew up them got into my march with my trekking poles and before I knew it was at the top of the pass and waiting for Laura. I am a much better hill climber than I am going on the straight or the downhills. Laura cruised the down hills, she was a machine while I hobbled along cursing them and rejoiced when we had another hill to walk up. The action of leaning forward and walking upwards stretched my calves and hamstrings easing my legs.

enough said I think!!

One of my favorite photos of the day - it reminds me of why I love the mountains so much!

Ceres has an abundance of passes connecting it with the outside world. One of the biggest is the Theronsberg Pass which forms a trio of passes into the north with the Hottentotskloof Pass and the Karoopoort. The pass (on the R46) connects Ceres with the R355 to Calvinia and Sutherland as well as linking up with the N1 highway just north of the Hexrivier Pass via another pass on the R46 - Die Venster (The Window).

Laura and I stopped here for lunch and Monty the MeerKat joined us. The loo faced some trees and behind the trees some children were playing. Imagine the laughter when they looked down to see me sitting on the loo on the side of the main road to Ceres; I am sure it was huge conversation. I laughed so much but if you got to go you got to go!!

Monty was my loyal little companion along the trip and yesterday during my break Karin and her mates took him along together with the Children's Hospital flags on the day 8 leg. Thank you Karin!

Then we were off again and we were greeted by gorgeous yellow foliage all along the plains and foothills. In winter these mountains are covered in snow - something I need to come back and see for myself!

we had to wind our way around that Head in the middle of the photo, still lots of winding to do.

Ii lay here with my feet up against the embankment. it was awkward to say the least and we laughed our heads off while I tried to get back up while twisting and almost going over head first after I had taken these photos of these gorgeous purple flowers.

My feet were throbbing and the arches unbearable. I was done. If I had seen the truck I would have hopped in for sure. Laura and I could not see where the signs were and it seemed forever with nothing. From the distance we could see a green name post on the left side but could not read it as it was too far. We found an entrance to a farm that was concreted and had a huge farm gate. We promptly sat down. Laura's feet were also in agony and we wondered how much further. We both took painkillers, massaged our feet, put our shoes back on and hobbled hopping the torture would end.

Spotted these unusual plants

We were to walk until we found the green signboard "prince Alfred Hamlet". some 100 metres on the right would be the entrance to our final camp Rhodona. I was fascinated at to how this little place had come to be. Prince Alfred Hamlet was founded by Johannes Cornelis Goosen, who was born in the Klein Drakenstein and moved to the Warm Bokkeveld as a young farmer. In March 1851 Goosen bought the farm Wagenbooms Rivier from a George Sebastiaan Wolfaardt for a mere £6 000. Ten years later he measured out first 80 plots then a further 10 more plots and promptly sold them for £6 000 each. These plots had water rights and each owner also received one morgen of land to cultivate in the Bakoven River to grow feed for their animals. While Goosen was busy measuring out his plots, Queen Victoria's son Prince Alfred visited the Cape Colony. Goosen decided to name the new town after the Prince and so the name Prince Alfred Hamlet was born. I found out that in 1861 the first school was established with a whooping 42 pupils under the tutorship of Master Strobos. The building which was only temporary was known as the “House on Sticks”. Then back n 1871 the “House on Sticks” was demolished when a more permanent building became available. It was also used as the church.,

.....and then we saw it, the sign said "Prince Albert Hamlet" and a few metres ahead we could see the crews standing waiting for us. Thank the Lord. I barely made it to the gate. These sandals were not made to walk the 54 odd km they had in the past couple of days. 33km done and dusted. We had made it!

We walked along a uneven gravel road which was excruciating for my feet, they were really bruised now and I had developed a blister between my little toe and next toe of all the weird placed. Perhaps with the socks and sandals something had got inside and rubbed against the skin. but on the bright side my shoes where still in one piece. As we walked the final stretch and came around the final corner we looked down on heaven. After 9 days in the desert, battling storms, flooding, windstorms we had found a spot near the lake on thick deep green grass. Oh wow.

Photo credit Tankwa Camino

Photo credit Tankwa Camino

These photos need no explanation to describe the mood!

Photo Credit Tankwa

Photo Credit Tankwa Camino

Photo Credit Tankwa Camino

Photo Credit Tankwa Camino

Photo Credit Tankwa Camino

Photo Credit Tankwa Camino

Once I got to my tent and sorted myself out I soaked my feet. Then the sunset really started and I quickly dug for my camera and had to snap away.

Rhodona is a private family homestead 15 km from Ceres.

I slept like a baby after a great meal and a hot shower. It was really heaven and tomorrow was our last leg. 15km walk into Ceres and then we were done. So hard to believe as I lay here listening to the hundreds of frogs croaking a nature lullaby, that hours ago we were still in the Karoo desert. This is Africa full of surprise, wonder and beautiful. There is nothing like it on earth and we had better make damn sure we look after it for our grandchildren to enjoy. I could feel the soft thick grass under my tent and walking around the camp barefoot allowing the grass to massage your feet was really bliss. Yipe after this tomorrow will be a piece of cake come hell or high water it was homeward bound.

Blog Links

Adventurekim.com

Adventure with a Purpose

Tankwa Camino

Red Cross Children's Hospital Cape Town

should you wish to donate to the new ICU wing for the Children s Red Cross Hospital please follow the following link on Back-a-Buddy:

https://www.backabuddy.co.za/champion/project/adventure-with-a-purpose

The Team Zodwa Project ™

Member: FGASA (Field Guides Association of Southern Africa)
Member: Vincent de Paul Victory Park (St Charles Catholic Church)

Photo Credits: Kim Williams Copyright

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Warmest