Tankwa Karoo Camino 256 km 2 Provinces 10 days desert trek: cause; Red Cross Children's Hospital Day 7: 12 May 2016

Day 7 Tankwa Camino

There was great excitment in the camp this morning. We were on our way to the Tankwa Padstal, a place in the middle of nowhere, where you could buy almost anything. It is well known for cold beers and great burgers. Before the sun was up people were making up their tents using their head torches wanting to make the Padstal in time for breakfast. You could feel the up beat mood in the air and after roughing it for the past 7 days we were in for a treat and a taste of a little civilization, Karoo civilization that is..

Another spectacular sunrise greeted us as Laura and I made our way. We were 12 km away from the Tankwa Padstal. Laura was making sure we stopped every 5km, a routine she had started from day 1 and it had paid off. It was a chance to put our feet up and lots of massaging and manipulating of the bones took place. As we took our breaks lots of birds were in the trees and on the ground. I was tied as I had not slept very well waking up with throbbing feet and legs. My knees had now swelled up as well as my face.

The incredible view from my window - just cannot get enough of our beautiful Karoo skies. We really have a beautiful country.

Just seeing that board with the coke bottle on it was enough to quicken the steps!! Just over the ridge to the right is a large water tank that has been painted red with the Coke logo on it. I thought my camera had taken the shot but I had somehow missed it.

Exactly!

The Padstal such a welcome sight!!! Such a colourful and dramatic looking landmark it was hard to miss and I would soon find out just what an iconic Karoo landmark it really was!

The magic sign which indicated that we would be able to contact our families after 7 days!!

The final 50m or so to some luxury after 7 days in the desert

We arrived at the padstal and many of the walkers were already there eating really great looking food I might add, I was watering at the mouth!. Emus greeted us with their huge eyes and strange bodies, as did a very colourful windmill.Emus in the Karoo you might ask, after all they are the second largest living bird by height after its ratite relative, the ostrich, however it is endemic to Australia, yipe down under but this is the Karoo and you just accept it. In this strange and unique place these Emus, well looked at home!

I just loved the decor of the place. Husband and wife teams ran the place and it is very popular amongst tourists, locals and bikers. Wally, Hein, Susan and Henrietta have created a small oasis in the desert and I was amazed at how busy it was. Hein is a raw vegan, much to Laura's delight and he prepared an awesome vegan meal for her which even included a fantastic looking smoothy that would have the Sandton girls queing up. On the following days walk this young man Hein with his dreadlocks even made a special smoothy for Laura and came looking for her on the road. He found her and handed her smoothy over to her. Now thats what I call service, you will not find that happening back in Johannesburg. Got to love the Karoo, it rocks.

The owner himself is an artist and makes several creations himslef, his touches are everywhere.

Creating beauty from the dusy earth, an oasis rises to welcome tired and weary travellers.

There is even a gravel landing stip to the right of the entace to the Padstal. Bikers continued to pull up on route their adventures.

When its hot this brick dam proves very popular while sipping iced cold beers!

The the scorching heat the verandahs and covered seating areas are cool and plain heaven.

The quirky bar

The original Padstal burnt to the ground, the work of an arsonist one night on the 21st of September 2014. Apparently there had been a disagreement at the bar involving a young local guy who then left only to return with petrol and a mission, but not before he broke into the store and stole sweets and a couple of knives. He then promtly burnt the place to the ground. I wondered if they had a fire department close by? The police came and so did their tracker dogs and tracked the arsonist down, who was known to them, thanks to a witness who saw him leaving after the deed was done. We was arrested. A large group of well-wishes helped to bring it back to life, even better I am told. It sits in the middle of nowhere some 80km north of Ceres and 160km south of Calvinia on the longest uninterrupted dirt road in South Africa the R355. The owner told me it was just 10 weeks later it reopened bigger, more colourful and better than it was before. I fell in love with this eccentric place loosing myself within it and its contents reminded me of our trading stores when I was a child living on the farm.

So how did they summounds so much help? Well through good old social media, money donations, building supplies, die hard supporters, loyal patrons and some of the unusual and wierd decor additions apparently from the many bikers, bloggers and Burners who clearly love this place. It is filled with creativity, wonderful memories and odds and ends but somehow its strangely beautiful combinatons of creativity just works and the result are well, gloriously stunning. A group of really talented and passionate people have put together a trading store, restaurant, bar and outdoor area that I am sure we will find nowhere else. This is a Karoo Gem!!

That is Wally Lange sitting reading - this place has a well stocked library too donated by the public, filled with children's books and Afrikaans romance novels amongst many other books that have been no doubt held by the hands of many interesting and unique people. The place is filled with stories, if only the walls could talk, the decor lends itself to the tales of hardships, the toughness and ruggedness of the unforgiving Karoo desert all brought together to celebrate its uniqueness.

I could not help but wonder if this front radiator fender hanging on the wall in the pub/sports bar was from the old truck I had photographed earlier lying in a field. I forgot to ask the owner. Now I have an excuse to come back!

Part of the underover eating area with its famous barbie braai

The sign on the door of the cooldrink fridge "solar energy used. Please decide what you want before you open the door"

The little trading store section had me mesmerized and starry eyed, and it is easy to see in this desert how a place like this can be a lifeline for the locals and why this place means so much to them. They come here in all transport modes, from bicycles, on foot, motorbikes, trucks, tractors, bakkies, cars and even horse carts to buy their monthly goods and treats. This is indeed a desert treasure trove.

The other bonus was that we finally had contact with our families. It was good to chat to them and many of the walkers were in tears chatting to their children. I posted on facebook and social media and was really exicted to see that we had raised close to R7 000 already. We spent close to any hour there, a bit long but so worth it.

Inside here I was transported to my childhood, reminders of my mom and grandmother standing behind the counter of our farm trading stores, like this one with its high counters and glass display cases. You can buy anything here from natural healing/traditional remedies, homemade ginger beer, fudge, bicycle parts, matches, zambac, panado, hats, cutlery, cups, plates, skipping ropes, dolls, toys, toiletress, jewelery, ankle and knee guards, fruit, vegetables, flour, peanut butter, hand and feet warmers and heat packs, you name it and I am sure you will find it. I bought Karoo Honeybush tea and a bright yellow toothbrush and was even offered a free pear by Hein, a raw vegan.

the mind boggles!!

Blankets and fire wood!

Placing your orders

My feet which were now turning blue from the bruising - stress fracture in the making.

The strange Emus who in this place looked quiet at home!

I am quiet sure these birds could write a book on the stories and tales that they have witnessed here at the Tankwa Padstal!

Amazing that a few days later we were still seeing puddles and pools of water and mud!

This bridge over the Doring river was built in 1949. What I found amazing was that all the bridges are in excellent condition in this remote desert and apart from this one are all painted white, and they remain clean and white, in the desert!

What was left of the Doring river bed.

Places to visit with my hubby and my Jimny!!

Resting the feet and trying to reduce the swelling down - to afraid to take them off at this time!

We still had another 15km back to our next camp. About 5km to go we picked up young Chaise sitting on the side of the road. His feet were killing him. We asked him to join us as we needed a man with us, we could hear the Jackals howling as the sun was starting to sink and the more of us humans, we hoped would mean that the Jackals would leave us alone.

Chaise and Laura trying to find the flattest parts of the horrid road to walk on.

Danie came past and gave us water. One of the other guys who stayed behind at the padstal came past us and waved as he marched on to camp. We asked Danie to take our backpacks so he loaded Laura's, Chaise and mine into the bakkie and we continued the last 3 kilometres to camp feeling free and light, breathing in the dusk smells of fynbos and the howling Jackals who now seemed a lot closer. The wind was picking up and was going to make putting up our tents a challenge. Chaise had his dad and sister with him so he was sorted. Laura and I were really relieved when we arrived in camp to find that our tents had been sorted out thanks to Clive and Kelvin, my heroes!!

Gorgeous sunsets and reflections in the water.

Just loved playing with the light and red cotton clouds!

the sunset behind us as we made our way into our overnight camp.

I was really cold and a quick bath and dinner and I was in my tent snug in my -20 sleeping bag and tried to get some sleep, but my legs throbbed the whole night and I actually felt a little nauseous, I am sure that was from all the painkillers and anti inflammatories I was taking. My body was not used to this. It rained the whole night and our tents were really wet again but luckily I stayed dry inside my tent.

Blog Links

Adventurekim.com

Adventure with a Purpose

Tankwa Camino

Red Cross Children's Hospital Cape Town

should you wish to donate to the new ICU wing for the Children s Red Cross Hospital please follow the following link on Back-a-Buddy:

https://www.backabuddy.co.za/champion/project/adventure-with-a-purpose

The Team Zodwa Project ™

Member: FGASA (Field Guides Association of Southern Africa)
Member: Vincent de Paul Victory Park (St Charles Catholic Church)

Photo Credits: Kim Williams Copyright

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Warmest